On Saturday, 20 December we flew to Amman, capital city of Jordan, to commence our Middle East/Northern African holiday (2 weeks returning 3 Jan '08) .
First impressions of Amman, the only major developed city in Jordan included:
- hustling men wanted to 'help' with anything for a small fee;
- stark landscape of limestone and sandstone rubble;
- minimal vegetation except for the dust covered pine trees; and
- bland white square apartment blocks.
I guess this impression doesn't paint a pretty picture of the country, however we soon learnt that the people are incredibly friendly & helpful... and it was the middle of winter!
Amman
We saw the sites of Amman including a Roman theatre built in the 2nd Century AD and the Citadel which sits atop the highest of 20 hills in town. Of course we decided that it would be good for us to walk around the city to see the sites. Only later did we realise that Amman is built on 20 hills, so the walking involved a lot of up & down!
Petra
Then we ventured south to Wadi Musa to visit the highly anticipated city of Petra. It was built around 200BC due to it being on a common trading route for caravans carrying spices, animals and produce. All that remains is the elaborate facades carved into the sandstone cliff faces of tombs. From Wadi Musa, it is a mystical 1.2km walk along a narrow channel with towering rock faces either side. Eventually you emerge from the channel with your first glimpse of Petra being the renowned Treasury. It is the facades that captivate- the interiors are all unadorned square halls.
It is said that only 5% of Petra has been excavated. With some 500 tombs to explore within the valley, it obviously leaves a lot unearthed. The ancient city also includes a Roman Theatre carved out of the cliff face and ancient ruins from the old city centre (including floor mosaics in excellent condition in a church dating from 500BC).
We hiked to view the Monastery, a tomb which sits at the peak of a mountain with views of the valley, Israel and The Palestinian Territories.
Wadi Rum was made famous by the exploits of TE Lawrence (aka Lawrence of Arabia). It is a series of valleys in a continuous desert landscape of sand and rocks with the intermittent towing 'jebels' eroded into the sandstone. An unexpected bonus was being driven by the Sheik (leader of all tribes in the region) around the area showing us ancient sites including inscriptions on rock faces that were around 10,000 years old! We stayed at the Sheik's Bedouin camp for the night experiencing excellent hospitality, yummy food cooked in an earth oven and sleeping under the stars, brrrrrr close to 0 degrees.
Red Sea, Egypt
On Christmas day we crossed from Jordan to Egypt and spent a couple of days in a beach hut by the coast near Nuweiba. It was an incredibly simple resort however with the water less than 10m from our hut it felt like paradise. We ate, relaxed, and snorkeled enjoying the fish and coral.
St Katherine Monastery & Mt Sinai
The monastery is built at the site of what is believed to the burning bush where Moses received his 10 commandments (Jen received a short religious lesson here!). It is claimed that descendants from the original burning bush still exist within the confinds of the Monastery.
We hiked to the top of Mt Sinai (2,285m) to enjoy the magnificent views and sunset. Good exercise mid trip to work off the yummy felafel's, hummus, chicken shwarma & kebabs consumed!
Cairo
After days of travelling through the vast and arid desert of Jordan and Eastern Egypt (Sinai) we arrived in Cairo, the most populous city in Africa. Boy is it a hustling and bustling city, similar to the streets of Eastern Asia where crossing the road becomes a major challenge and obstacle. Cairo is a mix of historic and some what modern districts, with the Pyramids of Giza bordering right on the suburb of Giza!
We explored the fantastic Egyptian Museum seeing the majority of the elaborate treasures retrieved from Tutankhamen's tomb and numerous other relics. It is unbelievable comprehending the age of the artifacts (Tutankhamen died in 1327 BC) and their excellent condition.
We hired a driver for a day and explored the Pyramids surrounding Cairo. First stop was a six step pyramid located at Saqqara, built in 2650BC for Zoser. This is Egypt's (and the world!) earliest stone monument, and the basis upon which the subsequent more renowned pyramids (of Giza) were built. Surrounding the Step Pyramid is numerous other pyramids which are mostly reduced to a pile of rubble.
The nearby Red Pyramid, the first successfully completed smooth sided pyramid, was the first glimpse we had of a 'proper' pyramid. Felt a bit surreal as we approached it from the bright green agricultural fields irrigated by the Nile and evident poverty of the nearby village. The pyramids were built as elaborate tombs for the Pharaoh's during the Old and Middle Kingdom periods. We descended into the tomb of the Red Pyramid fighting our claustrophobia with each step we took (69m down a stone passage the size of a car windscreen)!
We had previously thought that visiting the Pyramids of Giza would be a mere formality, however were in awe when actually seeing the 3 Pyramids (and the Sphinx) in flesh. Huge! What more can we say....
Also at the Giza Pyramids is a huge wooden boat which was buried beside the Pyramid of Khufu. It is thought that the boat may have brought the mummy of the Pharaoh across the Nile River to his tomb. How can a wooden boat survive & be restored so perfectly when it was buried in 2570BC?
Luxor
We flew to Luxor from Cairo and spent a relaxing 3 days exploring the city and surrounds. Whilst the city of Luxor appears to have been swallowed by tourism, the surrounding agricultural regions still show evidence of local culture. We were sick of the constant pestering by taxi drivers so decided that we would hire bicycles and cycle around the West Bank to see the famed sites including Valley of the Kings, the Colossi of Memnon, Deir al-Bahri, Valley of the Queens and Medinat Habu.
The Valley of the Kings is in an isolated valley of barren cliff faces where mostly Pharaoh's from the 18th dynasty (1550-1290BC) were buried. The elaborate tombs contained the Pharaoh's mummy in the sarcophagi, numerous treasures to assist the Pharaoh in his afterlife, and were generally adorned with fine paintings and hieroglyphics. To mitigate against the theft of the treasures within the tombs, they are all built down steep ravines and narrow shafts well beneath the surface.
On the East Bank, the enormous temple's of Karnak and Luxor lie besides the Nile River. We found the great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak temple most impressive. It is a 'forest' of 134 towering papyrus shaped stone pillars. The condition of the 3,500 y/o mummy of Ahmose at the Luxor Museum was also staggering, complete with hair & even toe nails!
The other intense difference between the tombs and ruins of Egypt and that of Europe and Asia that we have experienced is the never ending and elaborate hieroglyphics the adorn the walls, doors, columns and ceilings. The ancient Egyptians must have truly thought they were the peak of all civilisation!
Cycling amongst the agricultural fields on the West Bank of Luxor
The Colossi of Memnon
A typical sunset on the Nile
View from hotel room to the Westbank- balloons each morning
First impressions of Amman, the only major developed city in Jordan included:
- hustling men wanted to 'help' with anything for a small fee;
- stark landscape of limestone and sandstone rubble;
- minimal vegetation except for the dust covered pine trees; and
- bland white square apartment blocks.
I guess this impression doesn't paint a pretty picture of the country, however we soon learnt that the people are incredibly friendly & helpful... and it was the middle of winter!
Amman
We saw the sites of Amman including a Roman theatre built in the 2nd Century AD and the Citadel which sits atop the highest of 20 hills in town. Of course we decided that it would be good for us to walk around the city to see the sites. Only later did we realise that Amman is built on 20 hills, so the walking involved a lot of up & down!
Petra
Then we ventured south to Wadi Musa to visit the highly anticipated city of Petra. It was built around 200BC due to it being on a common trading route for caravans carrying spices, animals and produce. All that remains is the elaborate facades carved into the sandstone cliff faces of tombs. From Wadi Musa, it is a mystical 1.2km walk along a narrow channel with towering rock faces either side. Eventually you emerge from the channel with your first glimpse of Petra being the renowned Treasury. It is the facades that captivate- the interiors are all unadorned square halls.
It is said that only 5% of Petra has been excavated. With some 500 tombs to explore within the valley, it obviously leaves a lot unearthed. The ancient city also includes a Roman Theatre carved out of the cliff face and ancient ruins from the old city centre (including floor mosaics in excellent condition in a church dating from 500BC).
We hiked to view the Monastery, a tomb which sits at the peak of a mountain with views of the valley, Israel and The Palestinian Territories.
First glimpse of The Treasury from the Siq
A common sight in Jordan- Men in Bedouin headdress
At the Monastery
Wadi Rum, Jordanian desert
Wadi Rum was made famous by the exploits of TE Lawrence (aka Lawrence of Arabia). It is a series of valleys in a continuous desert landscape of sand and rocks with the intermittent towing 'jebels' eroded into the sandstone. An unexpected bonus was being driven by the Sheik (leader of all tribes in the region) around the area showing us ancient sites including inscriptions on rock faces that were around 10,000 years old! We stayed at the Sheik's Bedouin camp for the night experiencing excellent hospitality, yummy food cooked in an earth oven and sleeping under the stars, brrrrrr close to 0 degrees.
The amazing landscape of Wadi Rum
10,000 year old rock inscriptions!
Red Sea, Egypt
On Christmas day we crossed from Jordan to Egypt and spent a couple of days in a beach hut by the coast near Nuweiba. It was an incredibly simple resort however with the water less than 10m from our hut it felt like paradise. We ate, relaxed, and snorkeled enjoying the fish and coral.
Our beach hut on the Red Sea- just 9m from the water!! What a spot!
St Katherine Monastery & Mt Sinai
The monastery is built at the site of what is believed to the burning bush where Moses received his 10 commandments (Jen received a short religious lesson here!). It is claimed that descendants from the original burning bush still exist within the confinds of the Monastery.
We hiked to the top of Mt Sinai (2,285m) to enjoy the magnificent views and sunset. Good exercise mid trip to work off the yummy felafel's, hummus, chicken shwarma & kebabs consumed!
The remote St Katherine's Monastery
Sitting atop Mt Sinai ready for sunset (2,285m)
Cairo
After days of travelling through the vast and arid desert of Jordan and Eastern Egypt (Sinai) we arrived in Cairo, the most populous city in Africa. Boy is it a hustling and bustling city, similar to the streets of Eastern Asia where crossing the road becomes a major challenge and obstacle. Cairo is a mix of historic and some what modern districts, with the Pyramids of Giza bordering right on the suburb of Giza!
We explored the fantastic Egyptian Museum seeing the majority of the elaborate treasures retrieved from Tutankhamen's tomb and numerous other relics. It is unbelievable comprehending the age of the artifacts (Tutankhamen died in 1327 BC) and their excellent condition.
We hired a driver for a day and explored the Pyramids surrounding Cairo. First stop was a six step pyramid located at Saqqara, built in 2650BC for Zoser. This is Egypt's (and the world!) earliest stone monument, and the basis upon which the subsequent more renowned pyramids (of Giza) were built. Surrounding the Step Pyramid is numerous other pyramids which are mostly reduced to a pile of rubble.
The nearby Red Pyramid, the first successfully completed smooth sided pyramid, was the first glimpse we had of a 'proper' pyramid. Felt a bit surreal as we approached it from the bright green agricultural fields irrigated by the Nile and evident poverty of the nearby village. The pyramids were built as elaborate tombs for the Pharaoh's during the Old and Middle Kingdom periods. We descended into the tomb of the Red Pyramid fighting our claustrophobia with each step we took (69m down a stone passage the size of a car windscreen)!
We had previously thought that visiting the Pyramids of Giza would be a mere formality, however were in awe when actually seeing the 3 Pyramids (and the Sphinx) in flesh. Huge! What more can we say....
Also at the Giza Pyramids is a huge wooden boat which was buried beside the Pyramid of Khufu. It is thought that the boat may have brought the mummy of the Pharaoh across the Nile River to his tomb. How can a wooden boat survive & be restored so perfectly when it was buried in 2570BC?
The Step Pyramid- first built Pyramid in Egypt
Inside the tomb of the Red Pyramid
The Pyramids of Giza- Sphinx & The Great Pyramid of Khufu
Pyramids of Queens, Khafre & Khufu (L-R)
The reknowned Pyramid of Khafre with limestone casing still intact on the peak
Luxor
We flew to Luxor from Cairo and spent a relaxing 3 days exploring the city and surrounds. Whilst the city of Luxor appears to have been swallowed by tourism, the surrounding agricultural regions still show evidence of local culture. We were sick of the constant pestering by taxi drivers so decided that we would hire bicycles and cycle around the West Bank to see the famed sites including Valley of the Kings, the Colossi of Memnon, Deir al-Bahri, Valley of the Queens and Medinat Habu.
The Valley of the Kings is in an isolated valley of barren cliff faces where mostly Pharaoh's from the 18th dynasty (1550-1290BC) were buried. The elaborate tombs contained the Pharaoh's mummy in the sarcophagi, numerous treasures to assist the Pharaoh in his afterlife, and were generally adorned with fine paintings and hieroglyphics. To mitigate against the theft of the treasures within the tombs, they are all built down steep ravines and narrow shafts well beneath the surface.
On the East Bank, the enormous temple's of Karnak and Luxor lie besides the Nile River. We found the great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak temple most impressive. It is a 'forest' of 134 towering papyrus shaped stone pillars. The condition of the 3,500 y/o mummy of Ahmose at the Luxor Museum was also staggering, complete with hair & even toe nails!
The other intense difference between the tombs and ruins of Egypt and that of Europe and Asia that we have experienced is the never ending and elaborate hieroglyphics the adorn the walls, doors, columns and ceilings. The ancient Egyptians must have truly thought they were the peak of all civilisation!
Cycling amongst the agricultural fields on the West Bank of LuxorThe Colossi of Memnon
A typical sunset on the Nile
View from hotel room to the Westbank- balloons each morningThe Nile is and has always been the life blood of Egypt
Avenue of ram headed Sphinx's at Karnak Temple
Lunch in the ruins at Karnak Temple (tallest obelisk in Egypt in background)
Avenue of ram headed Sphinx's at Karnak TempleGreat Hypostyple Hall- 134 huge pillars!
Lunch in the ruins at Karnak Temple (tallest obelisk in Egypt in background)Overall it was a fabulous trip from a historical, gastronomical and cultural perspective (although Joburg seemed to be so incredibly developed, green and civilised upon our return!).